Professional jamón cutters, fresh orange juice machines, unrefrigerated milk and eggs, and no rush whatsoever – there are plenty of surprises (many of them pleasant) that Americans face when they start food shopping in Spain, writes Jennifer Lutz.
Don’t expect to find salt and vinegar chips at the supermarket in Spain. Actually, don’t expect to find a large variety of flavours, period.
The snacks that fill ten aisles at the grocery store in my hometown claim a single aisle at the Condis down the street from my apartment in Cadaquès.
The first thing I do when I visit my parents in the US is buy snacks; I spend hours choosing different drinks, crackers, and supposedly healthier versions of tortillas.
In Spain, it’s a different ballgame. What first surprised me has become part of daily life. Now, the same way I crave those salt and vinegar chips, I crave orange juice squeezed fresh from the machine — most grocery stores in Spain have it.
Like me, many of my American friends are as shocked by what Spain does have as what it doesn’t.
Spanish supermercados
Mercadona went viral last year for its upside-down pineapple singles night (organised by the singles, not the supermarket). It’s also a favourite of locals and visitors alike, including my cousin who won’t leave Barcelona without visiting the nearest Mercadona.
READ ALSO: Why do so many Spaniards want to work for Mercadona supermarket?
They’re more common near towns than in city centres, and they’re more like American markets than smaller groceries, like Spar or Condis. Still, compared to American counterparts, Spanish grocery stores are small and not the one-stop shops we’re used to. My cousin’s wife is still upset that she couldn’t find safety pins.
But more than size and variety, Americans are surprised by prices. Expect to pay much less, especially for produce and fresh items, like meat and fish. I’ll pay less than six euros for fresh fish and vegetables.
You’ll save money but spend time. Compared to the US (at least the northeast), Spaniards live “sin prisa” — without hurry. When you buy a fish, they’ll clean and prep it for you. Cross your fingers; the person in front of you doesn’t order squid for a family of eight. I’ve lost years of my life watching professionally gutted calamari.
READ ALSO: Is it the end of supermarket small talk in Spain?
If it’s your local market, be ready to chat. That pineapple dating scheme didn’t come from nowhere. In my personal experience, Spaniards also pay in cash at much higher rates than Americans do. Be prepared to hold your breath while a grandma counts coins.
And who knows, at first you may be the one holding up the line — if you forget to weigh and price your produce before queuing.
Warm milk and fresh bread
You won’t find eggs in the refrigerator in Spain. Instead, look for them on the shelf, usually near the spices. Same goes for milk. While you’ll find a few upscale brands sold in fancy glass bottles, kept chilled next to the yogurt, most milk is sold boxed and on the shelf.
READ MORE: Why does milk taste different in Spain?
I’ve eaten room-temperature eggs for eight years now, and I’m still alive.
While we’re talking about eggs, let’s revisit that snack issue. There are a few great Spanish prepped foods that make up for the lack of ranch Doritos. Don’t miss out on the Spanish tortilla, a potato omelette that is basically a frittata. Of course, the premade isn’t as good as fresh, but it’s a great thing to bring to a picnic or any Spanish house party. Pair it with a fresh baguette that you can buy for under two euros and olive oil.
Spain is not on a low-carb diet. You’ll find racks of freshly baked bread near the checkout at most supermarkets. Expect them to have five ingredients or less and sell out quickly. That’s not to say Spain doesn’t have its own form of junk bread. Bimbo is their version of Wonderbread, spongy, bleached white, and a staple for many bar sandwiches.
READ ALSO: Where you should grocery shop in Spain based on your preferences
Another staple is olives, but watch out; some of the canned ones have anchovy paste in the middle. It’s definitely an aired taste. You can usually find small containers of Jamón and Manchego cheese, packed with mini hard breadsticks. For the most part though, Spain just isn’t as big on packaged foods as the US, not even close.
No meds
In Pittsburgh, the grocery store was also the pharmacy — at least for the basics like Advil and vitamins. Not in Spain. If you have a headache, go to the pharmacy. It works the other way as well. Don’t expect to find snacks next to your supplements.
You can’t always get what you want
You may have a harder time finding fruit rolls and Gushers, but you’ll have an easier time finding fresh produce — nearly everywhere. By the time I walk five minutes to the Spar, I’ve walked past 2 produce shops
Live in Spain long enough, and you’ll likely become loyal to one or two. Make friends, and they’ll surely have their own favourite. Mine is run by a family whose farm is in Lleida, and it’s where I first began my grocery transition.
It was the thick of summer, and I went to buy more cherries. They were done. I asked when there would be more, and the clerk told me, “Next season. Now, you eat figs.” So I ate the figs, and in time grew accustomed to eating more seasonally.
Actually, I grew accustomed to not having whatever I want whenever I want, period.
Try something new
You can’t always get what you want, but you may find something better. Spain has loads of interesting foods to try. Beyond the tortilla, there’s load of seasonal treats, like turron during Christmas. Every spring I get excited for grilled artichokes and local asparagus. That fish I make myself is whole, eyes and all. My visitors aren’t always excited when I first serve it, but in time they adapt.
There are also some local fruits and veggies worth trying. Most Americans have probably tried pomegranate by now, but in the south of Spain, they’re known as Custard Apple. Contrary to high prices in the States, since being branded a super food, they’re easy to find and affordable in most Spanish markets. Permission, known as caqui sort of look like a small orange tomato. They’re incredibly sweet!
READ ALSO: A guide to shopping at your local fruit and veg store in Spain
And if you’re here in November, go for one of the roasted sweet potatoes that grocery stores sell at checkout. For a euro or two, they’ll give you one still warm, wrapped in foil. Beats a hot dog, in my opinion.
The mom-and-pop store is alive and well
I still take advantage of the local markets; buying my fish at the pescadería, my bread at the panadería, and my meat at the carnicería. Which brings me to my real first shock, and this column’s “oops.”
Confident in my Spanish, I waited in line at the carnicería, while the cute butcher served a line of Spanish grandmothers. When it was my turn, with all the pride in the world, I asked for chicken, “Yo quiero una polla, por favor!”
At least, I thought I asked for chicken. I mistook the masculine for the feminine. Rather than order chicken, I loudly told the butcher that I wanted a penis.
If you ever want to order a chicken, the correct phrase is, “Yo quiero un pollo.” Even better and safer is, “Yo quiero una gallina”, but you may get a live one!
